Petal Three, Worksheet #1: Story 1
I am currently working through the popular work book that is “a practical manual for job-hunters and career changers” titled What Color is Your Parachute? The current exercise I am facing involves analyzing seven stories when you (me) were enjoying yourself (myself). Here it goes.
One year ago, I made a conscious decision to dive head first into surfing. My goal was to become fully immersed in and and involved with surfing, surf culture, and the lifestyle of avid surfers. I wanted to get to know everyone that surfed my local spot and I wanted to learn more about surfboards, surf styles, surf vehicles, and the people that owned, designed, and operated them. On top of this, my goal involved doing whatever it took to become the best surfer I could be.
I have been surfing for the majority of my life, and was fortunate to be born and raised in Southern California minutes from the beach, yet had never made the effort to immerse myself as I did in the past year. In short, this operation was a success. I will quickly describe how I made it happen, obstacles I faced, and the outcome/results.
The first obstacle I faced was beach closure due to Covid-19. No surfing allowed, for anyone. I went to the spot everyday and got to know those who did the same, while sneaking into the water whenever I got a chance. The second obstacle I faced shortly after the beach reopened, was a broken arm due to a surfing whip out. I got put in a cast and back on land. I still went to the spot everyday to watch, learn, and converse. As soon as I felt ready, I had my best pal and roommate cut that bad boy off, and I was back in the water. I spent the following 10 months surfing at the minimum of 7–10 times a week. I bought a 4x4 pop top astro van and fully took on the surfer, beach bum, persona. This vehicle proved unreliable at times and I found myself walking to the beach with board under arm, or hitching rides from fellow surfers.
During this religious commitment to showing up no matter what, I was getting to know locals, they were getting to know and respect me, and I was developing a network of like-minded, committed, and core surfers. I was also full of energy, getting tons of exercise, laughing, smiling, enjoying the earth and its nature beauties, and on fire for life. My confidence in the water, in the lineup and in the peanut gallery grew rapidly.
Somewhere along the way, I met a girl. A surfer girl from Santa Cruz, who shreds. Her name is Michaela, we immediately started dating, and with extra time on our hands due to the global pandemic got to surf and hang out a lot. I learned, and continue to learn, so much about surfing and the way she understands it. For example, she taught me about board selection, and how having the right board yields having the most fun and catching the most waves. She once said “The best surfer out there is the one with the right board for the day and conditions.” I found this to be true because when you respectively have the right board, you will get the most waves and therefore have the most fun. In a lot of waves, she help put me in my place as a surfer, now letting me make better decisions about where to surf and what gear to bring. I learned similar things from spending time talking with locals at the spot.
The overall outcome and result of this decision to commitment myself fully to something I felt passionately about is beyond me. I know have access to a growing network of surfers, a growing knowledge and appreciation for the local wave, a massive increase in my surfing ability and confidence in the water, and a beautiful girlfriend who has taught me everything she knows about surfing, whom I somewhat feel indebted to.
Lastly, I learned a lot about myself, my tenacity, my ability to suit up and show up no matter what, my inquisitive and curious nature, and my personable and exciting attitude and outlook on life. This pursuit made me a better surfer, a better friend, a better member of the community, and harder worker. Below is a photo shot by Andy Woodward of me surfing my local wave.
